Wave Hill, Kalkaringi and Victoria River Downs

In May I went out into the Victoria River District for the first time. I had wanted to go for ages, but I went out this time because a bunch of old school drovers were riding from Camooweal to Kununurra down the old stock routes. You can hear the stories I did here.

VRD is about 400 kilometres from Katherine, the last hundred or so are on a very rocky gravel road. Now, I've never blown a tire, and I didn't really know what it felt like until I was on this road. It took me a while to realise what had happened, to the tire's detriment.

Through good luck, I've never had to change a tire. I've always known how, Dad made sure he taught me when I was learning to drive, and I also had to do it as part of the 4WD course when I started at the ABC. So I jacked the car up, took the nuts off, and tried to pull the tire off. It wouldn't budge. I kept trying and trying, and I could feel the car wobbling on the jack I was pulling so hard. I tried lifting it up a bit, but nothing.

I thought maybe there was some other trick, because it's a pretty new and flashy car. But the manual didn't say anything. I was about 40 kilometres from anywhere, and hadn't passed a car for quite a while. But eventually a road train came along and stopped. The driver got out and I explained my problem to him. He walked over to the car, kicked the tire, and it loosened off and was easy to pull off. He left me with this sage advice: "Nine out of 10 of 'em need a good kick".

VRD is one of the oldest stations in the world, and the homestead is about 100 years old. Back in its heyday they had over 100 employees, not including the aboriginal workers, who they didn't think to count. It had an Australian Inland Mission hospital set up by John Flynn, its own post office, a school, butchers, blacksmiths and at one stage had it's own postcode. It's an amazing old station. Nowadays the stock camp has about eight people in it. There's also a helimustering company based there, but I think all up there are only 45 people there now.

After leaving VRD and having morning tea with the old drovers 10 kilometres down the stock route, I headed to Wave Hill Station. Wave Hill is famous because this is where Vincent Lingiari walked off in 1966 and started a national push for land rights. The homestead isn't the original homestead, it had to move in the 70s because they ran out of water. Of course Vesteys don't own it anymore, and the managers there are great people, and have really funny kids!

I did this great story about two of their girls fattening up pigs to eat for Christmas. They were very funny!

The next day I went to the old homestead site, which is where the walk off happened. There's not much there, just a few old buildings and foundations. This was pretty much one of the only structures left. Now I have no idea what this building was, but it looks like it might have been a living area given the table and chairs outside. You could bet the bank that it wouldn't have been a white fella living area if it was.

From I've read the living conditions that Gurindji people were terrible, rough shacks with dirt floors. This building would certainly seem to fit that description, and the louvred windows make me think it's a living area, not a shed of some sort. So I can't definitely say that this is where the Gurindji people were living, but it's the only building left, so maybe there's a reason?
I then headed into Kalkaringi, which is the aboriginal community that was set up when Lingiari walked off. Well, I think he went to where Kalkaringi is now, and then to Daguragu, which is about 8 kilometres away. They're both communities now. There's a memorial at Daguragu which is where Gough Whitlam poured earth to Lingiari's hands, and handed him deeds to his land.

Behind the monument is an example of the humpies that the Gurindji lived in for eight years. I don't know if this is actually one of them or whether it's a recreation, but it's pretty rough living either way.

I'm really enjoying getting out to some of these areas, and this trip was really great. Some of the old cattle stations are amazing and have such rich histories. And I like that I get paid to get out and about and visit these places!

Darwin trip

I've been up to Darwin a few times now, and it's a really cool little city.

I had a mate, Limmy, who was doing a four-month stint up here as a physio. To farewell him we had a bit of a lads weekend in Darwin.

We drove up on Friday after work, but there will be no photos of our activities here. Needless to say it was a good night.

It was, however, very difficult to get up in time to make the 7am fishing charter we had booked. The only saving grace was that we knew they were going to have bacon and egg rolls for us on arrival... gold. It was a half day trip, just around Darwin harbour.

It was a slow start, and the other fellas were pulling them up in dribs and drabs while I looked on forlornly. But soon, it was on.

Now much to Limmy's disgust, I caught the biggest fish of the day. It was a beautiful snapper. But Limmy, being a little bit petty, decided to crop the photo. Okay, so it's not a monster or anything, but catching anything is fun.

I caught five I think in all, and the other fellas caught a fair few too. We were staying at a backpackers right in town which had a barbecue, and decided to cook up the fillets for tea. So while all the other backpackers were eating tinned soup and sausages, we cooked up fresh fish marinated in chilli and garlic, asian greens stir fried on the barbecue, which actually worked really well, and chips.

It was awesome.

One the way back we decided to go via Litchfield National Park, which is maybe 80 kilometres off the highway back to Katherine.

We went to Florence Falls, which is the closest attraction. You have to walk down a heap of steps to get there, but this is the view from the lookout at the top.

It was a beautiful spot to swim, and we managed to climb up under the waterfall. There was also a great ledge to jump off into the pool. Apparently that's a bit of a boy thing to do, but it's always so much fun!

We stopped quickly at the magnetic termite mounds on the way out. This photo doesn't show it too clearly, but they're only perhaps 10 or 20 centimetres thick, and they all line up almost exactly north to south. If you think about it, it's pretty freaky that termites know how to do that. But apparently it's about the direction of the wind in the valley that the termites live in, and this is the most aerodynamic way to build them. Pretty clever.
So all in all, a pretty darn good weekend.

Daly Waters

As I mentioned, I've been trying to do a few more trips lately.

One I did on ANZAC Day was down to a little town called Daly Waters, population eight.

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The historic pub was holding a B&S, and being a rural reporter, it was important for me to cover this. Plus, I figure if I have to work on a public holiday I may as well have a bit of fun!

But Daly Waters is also home to one of Australia's biggest World War II airfields, which was also Australia's first international airport! There are heaps and heaps of WWII airfields around Katherine, I think the strategy was that if one was bombed or taken, there were others to fill the gaps. But Daly Waters was a big one.

I did a story on a whole heaps of old beer bottles that are near the base. Our old diggers didn't mind a drink, as it turns out.

The runway is a bit run down now, as you can see. I'm sure you can imagine that I drove responsibly and hesitantly drove the car down there.

Amazingly the runway is still in use with light aircraft, but I suppose you could land a Cessna is a lot of interesting places.

Daly Waters became the first international airport in Australia because Qantas used it as a refuelling stop on its route to Singapore, and it was also used in a big air race from London to Sydney in 1926. This is the original Qantas hangar, it now has a bit of a museum inside which is pretty interesting, if a little information dense.

Apparently the wife of the publican would come down with tea for the passengers, as they had to stop for about half an hour. The creek is between the pub and the airport though, so she used to have to take a high rope kind of thing to get across!

Assorted waterholes

Okay, I'm a bad blogger. It's been a long, long time since I've posted anything.

But a lot has been going on in that time. I'm trying to make the most of the dry season both for work and play. The wet officially begins in November, but could be earlier, and once that happens I won't be able to get to a lot of places. So I'm trying to do a lot of trips for work and a bit of hiking and camping. More on that in later posts... and there will be later posts!

For now, here are a few photos I took way back at Easter. This is Edith Falls, which is about 40 kilometres north of Katherine. I had a really great picnic here, and it's a great spot to swim. Although the local Jaowyn people won't swim here, as they believe it's the resting place of a creation creature.

Apparently if pregnant women swim here they have babies that have problems with their breathing and bones. I have it on good authority that one baby that was conceived in this pool (let's not think about that) was born with cystic fibrosis... which affects lungs and bones.

This photo is Southern Rockhole, near the Gorge. It is magic. It's about a four kilometre walk to get there, but so, so worth it. You can swim in this pool, or up above. There's a pretty standard warning that while rangers do a pretty thorough check for salt water crocs and have really good procedures in place, they can't guarantee that they're in certain places.

This is one of those places. But they'd have to get over a hell of a lot of rocks which they don't like to do, and no one has ever had any trouble.

Plus it's a really great place to swim.
The dry season is progressing, and Southern Rockhole has now stopped flowing. Edith Falls is still going though, so still some great places to swim.

I'm constantly amazed at how beautiful the swimming spots are up here.

More soon, I promise.

Barkly Tableland and Tennant Creek

I did my biggest road trip thus far a few weeks ago.

On day one I headed out to Soudan Station on the Barkly Tablelands. You know how I drove from Mount Isa to Katherine in two days? Well I drove to within 300 kilometres of Mount Isa back the way I came - in a day! It was 987 kilometres, and I called in at a few cattle stations along the way.

I was pretty well ready for a beer and a good feed by the time I got there, which luckily is not hard to come by on most cattle stations! And I slept like a log that night.

The morning was actually quite chilly, much colder than Katherine. I hung around the station for a while and watched the ringers and head stockman sort out the horses to shoe them.

One of the main purposes of the trip was to interview a bloke who is a world expert on dung beetles. He was speaking at the Barkly Roadhouse, which is about 300 kilometres east of Tennant Creek.

I did my first live interview for the Country Hour from here! I've learnt to use this piece of gear that will give me studio quality sound if I'm in mobile range or can get to a land line plug. So then all you need is a powerpoint and you're right. Here I'm broadcasting from the tailgate of the ABC car! This is very, very fun.

After leaving the roadhouse I headed to Banka Banka station and had a night camping in my swag and eating tinned stew by moonlight. It was pretty darn fun! The actual cattle part of Banka Banka is managed from the next station over, so I was staying at a small campground on the highway. It wasn't your normal cattle station experience. This is my best Steve Parish rip-off photo.

That morning I presented the rural report from the office of the station using their phone line. I'm really excited about the possibilities of what I can do with this piece of gear. The travel is the fun part of this job, albeit also the tiring part. And doing live stuff for the Country Hour is really tops.

After I came off air I went for a walk following signs to a waterhole. It was a great place for an early morning dip!

That day I headed into Tennant Creek, via another station. On the way I called in at The Pebbles, as their known, just north of town. Apparently this is a traditional women's meeting place, though the signs say visitors are welcome!

Just down the road is the old Tennant Creek repeater station for the Overland Telegraph. Back in the day this was a pretty big deal, and it's amazing to think that a couple of people lived here when the nearest white fella was hundred of kilometres away - and from what I gather they certainly didn't interact with the indigenous mobs in those days.

I stayed the night at Tennant Creek station but had dinner in town with the station family and a whole heap of other people. There was a workshop and a bull sale on and so there were people from everywhere - it was a really good chance to make contacts.

Tennant Creek isn't normally my patch, but I was out on the Barkly for the dung beetle thing so my boss said I may as well go to it rather than our Alice Springs reporter. So I did my rural report from the Tennant Creek show ground about five metres away from the cattle yards, and did two live interviews for the Country Hour.

The job is going really well, and doing live interviews has really added another dimension to it. It's a bit of a stress but also a major adrenalin rush!

I left Tennant Creek at about 1.30pm on Friday and headed back the 672 kilometres to Katherine! I'm getting used to driving the longer distances. Though, I do occasionally think about our family holidays to Merimbula, which was about a 600 kilometre drive. We did it once a year and went for two weeks, and it was a big deal!

But yeh, the job is going really well and it's pretty good to be able to see some of the Territory while I'm at it!

Tiwi Islands grand final

A few weeks ago three mates from Katherine and I went to the Tiwi Islands, 40 kilometres north of Darwin.

They have a local footy competition there, and every year the grand final is a bit of a social event, with a few thousand people flying in to watch the game.

There's also some interesting indigenous art centres on the islands, and so it's a great day.

We were up in Darwin anyway because the Waifs were playing, and so it was just a quick flight - the captain advised our flight time was 12 minutes - to the Tiwis.

We had a bit of a wonder around and went to the main art centre. This is the channel between the two islands that make up the Tiwis - Bathurst and Melville. The water was a beautiful colour and so inviting, it was a very hot day. But there was a big sign up right next to me warning me I would almost certainly die should I try to cool off.

Before the footy a women's choir sang a few tunes, and then did the national anthem, first in the native Tiwi language then in English. They were pretty good!

It was pretty obvious how closely the community follows their teams. Everyone ran onto the field with them and did a lap! It was pretty funny!!

The game itself was a bit lopsided towards the end and quite physical, but good fun to watch.

In the end the team I was barracking for, the Eagles, went down to the hometown favourites the Tigers. There's always next year fellas...

Kununurra trip

Wow, it's been a long time since I've posted anything.

Yes, part of it is laziness, but mostly it's that I've been quite busy and having too much fun!!

I've been doing some pretty cool stuff, but I won't talk about it all in one go. But I will put more stuff up here soon!

About a month ago I had the opportunity to go to Kununurra in Western Australia for work. It's just over the border into Western Australia, and the home of my closest rural reporter colleague. It's about 500 kilometres from Katherine.

So I went for work, but there was also plenty of time to see a bit of the Kimberley and have fun!

The reporter in Kununurra, Matt, took me to this amazing waterhole. This is the top of it, we had to walk down this path to the bottom.

But it was totally worth it. The water was really, really warm, to the point where it was almost uncomfortable, but it was such a beautiful spot for a swim.

Plus it had a rope swing!!

On the way back to Katherine we stopped in at Lake Argyle, which is the largest fresh water body in Australia. It's a massive dam, except the dam wall isn't actually that big, it's just very well placed. It's the dam for the Ord Irrigation Scheme, which was a big deal back in the 70s and is currently being extended. I don't think it ever quite caught on like the planners had hoped, but it's a lot of water!! Apparently during the wet season (it was a really big one this year) there was one million litres of water a second going over the spillway. That's just amazing.

I was in Kununurra for two nights, and it was my first time to WA! It was a pretty great trip, and I'm sure we did more stuff that I can't think of right now (plus a bit of work).

Will put more stuff up soon.

Darwin

If you could swim at the beaches with only the normal probability of death, Darwin could well be paradise.

I've been there twice now, once for work and once for a weekend. The weekend I went up was for an exhibition match between the Queensland Reds and the ACT Brumbies, but I decided to make a touristy trip of it.

The game was Friday and I went out for a few beers with my boss afterwards, and stayed in a backpacker on Mitchell Street, right in the middle of the city.

Saturday morning I needed breakfast, and found this great Turkish place! I had the 'Turkish Breakfast,' which was kind of a breakfast antipasto platter, a pile of olives, feta, tomato, cucumber and an omelet - delicious!

I thought I would be adventurous and order a Turkish coffee... the little old lady who was behind the counter, who I can only describe as a nona (I don't know the Turkish word) kind of looked at me doubtfully, and tried to talk me into having a flat white. But I persisted, and it was... well... perhaps I should have taken her advice.
After breakfast I headed to a crocodile park. They get the salties (the ones that will kill you... just to watch you die) to jump out of the water for bit of chook, it's pretty amazing to watch.
But they're only the smallish ones (they'll still kill you though). The really big ones are kept in breeding pens and there are duckboards over them. So you get to see them pretty close.
But wait, there's more! You get to feed them (hopefully not your arm). They give you a bit of chook on a rope on a stick, and you dangle it over the edge until they jump for it. They might be a meter and a half below you, it's certainly not far, perhaps two metres at most. The trickiest thing is to not move the chook when they jump for it - which is pretty much the exact opposite of my natural instinct. It was an interesting experience.
And then you get to wrestle with a saltwater crocodile! Of sorts... There's been a bit of reptile wrestling of late, but I will save that for another post.
After all the excitement of the morning I needed some lunch, and headed to the wharf precinct. You can get some really amazing seafood there, and a nice glass of wine, and the view ain't half bad either. This was when I started to think that perhaps Darwin may be paradise...
This is the view from the wharf looking back at the city. The plaques are tributes to the wharfies who died when the Japanese bombed the harbour in World War II. There's a lot of war tributes in Darwin, and a special museum dedicated to the attacks on the city. I didn't get there on this trip, but it's on my to do list.

This is the view looking out into the harbour.

After that I went for a walk around the city, and then drove up the headland a bit and watched the sunset over the Timor Sea. It was pretty special, but after visiting the croc farm I kept a respectful distance from the water!On Sunday I went to some awesome markets and had crepes and coffee for breakfast. I also managed to buy Thriller by Michael Jackson and Boy by U2 on vinyl. It was a really cool vibe and confirmed my suspicions of Darwin being a pretty cool little town.

On Sunday arvo I headed to the Darwin Museum. They have this stuffed croc there, 'Sweetheart'. He was 5.1 metres long and killed a number of people... I suppose the name is ironic?

The museum also has this really interesting exhibition about Cyclone Tracey. There's this one little room you can step into that's pitch black and you hear a recording of the noise from 1974. It's pretty intense, and quite scary even though you know it's not real. One shudders to think what the real thing would be like.

They also had a touring exhibition about ACDC. My Dad, being a nerd, didn't really get into them much and therefore it's a bit of a blackspot in my musical knowledge, but that was interesting.

It's about a three hour drive to Darwin, so very doable for a weekend. I think what I like about it is quite similar to what I liked about Newcastle - it's got most things you might want but everywhere is 10 minutes drive. The humidity, however, is pretty confronting, and you can't really swim at the beach and expect to come out again.

But yeh, it's a great city and I'm looking forward to more touristy weekends!

I went back last week to do a four wheel drive course, which I think will come in handy. I now have no excuse for stuffing the ABC car though.

Work is going well, I'm finding some stories and making some contacts, and I continue to meet people socially. So far it seems like moving to Katherine was a good call!

ABC office

I'm trying something a bit different here, hopefully it works.

Here's my office!

So I haven't posted as regularly as I said I would... sorry! Another one will be coming soon.

Katherine Gorge

On Sunday I decided it was time to go and have a look at Nitmiluk, also known as Katherine Gorge.
It was pretty spectacular, but at the moment most of the walking trails are closed due to the wet season. This is the first gorge, I gather there is a series of them.

Apparently in the dry season the water is clear. I suppose it makes sense the water would be dirty if it has been raining heaps, which it has. I will have to head out in the dry season to take the same shots to compare.

It was only a short walk, about a kilometre each way to the lookout, but the humidity, combined with my general lack of fitness made it a very hot one. The track also went up the escarpment, which was rather steep! I started walking just after a storm had passed through, which no doubt made the humidity worse.It was an overcast day, which I think may have detracted from the experience a bit, but it was good fun, and nice to get out of the house.

Speaking of which, I'm staying in a shared house at the moment. One of the housemates has gone overseas but has graciously let me stay in her room. She gets back at end of January, so there's a definite deadline to move out, but it will let me take a bit of time to find a place, rather than jump at the first house I can find. There hasn't exactly been offers flowing in, but I remain optimistic that once people keep coming back from holidays more people will be looking for a housemate.

And why wouldn't they want me, I'm quite the housemate-catch.

The job is going well, I've made my debut on the NT country hour. I'm beginning to feel more comfortable with the technical sides of radio, but I find myself concentrating on levels and making sure the damn thing is recording, not so much the interview. But I suppose these things come with time.

The move to Katherine!

If you’re reading this, chances are you already know that I’ve taken a job with the ABC in Katherine, in the Northern Territory.

I finished up at The North West Star on New Year’s Eve, and started driving on January 2.

I went to Google maps to see how far it would be between Mount Isa and Katherine - about 1200 kilometres. But the directions were pretty funny.

Head out of Mount Isa on the Barkly Highway, continue for 635 kilometres. Turn right onto the Stuart Highway, continue for 648 kilometres. Arrive Katherine.

So it was pretty unlikely I was going to get lost.

I head off a bit later on Sunday than I had hoped. I was house sitting for the photographer at the Star, Jane, and by the time I put the last few things in the car, vacuumed the house and did the dishes it was 10am.

Here’s the Queensland/NT border, just west of Camooweal. The only time I’ve “been” to the NT was when I went to Camooweal for their campdraft and drove 100 metres across the border.

Up until this point the car was going fine, loaded to the max as it was. But when I stopped for a loo break a bit later, there was something a bit weird going on, less power in the car.

But I meandered along, had lunch at Barkly Homestead, and then came to the one intersection of the trip where I actually turned left and drove into Tennant Creek.

This is what the Barkly Plain looks like, more or less for all 600 odd kilometres. Sometimes there were bushes. An info sign I stopped at said it hasn’t changed for the last 500 million years. That’s what it felt like.

Now, some back-story. On New Year’s Day I broke the door handle of my driver’s side door. Annoying, yes, but I figured it was just one of those things that happens. But being a public holiday, and the next day being Sunday, I figured I would just have to deal with it.

But when I stopped at the motel in Tennant Creek I shut the door on my seatbelt and couldn’t get the door open. At all. Luckily I had renewed my NRMA membership before I left, and I was able to call the NT version – the AANT. Unfortunately the bloke in Tennant Creek was on holidays and couldn’t come around until 8am the next morning.

So I went and had a few beers at the Tennant Creek Hotel and went to bed. After my late start on the first day I wanted to get on the road much earlier. But it was about 9am when the AANT guy arrived and opened the door with a bit of a jiggle of the door handle – very embarrassing.

But I asked him about the engine and started up the car for him.

He said he wouldn’t drive it, and the engine was missing pretty badly. I could give it a go and might make it, might not. He would drive it, he said, but he did point out that he was a mechanic.

Now, I don’t know if you’ve noticed, but I’m not a mechanic. In fact I once had to take my bike to the bike shop after trying to tighten the brakes. But it was January 3, the New Year’s Day public holiday and there was nothing open in Tennant Creek.

The worst-case scenario would be breaking down in the middle of nowhere, which is describes pretty well all of the Stuart Highway.

So after a chat with Dad, I decided to see how the car would go from Tennant Creek to Three Ways roadhouse, 26 kilometres up the road. If that went well, I would see how it went to the next roadhouse, and so on.

The car sounded alarmingly like a lawnmower, but once it got going it seemed okay. So I continued on, holding my breath.

It was all going well until I stopped for petrol in Elliot, and, embarrassingly, shut my door on my seatbelt again!

I had seen the guy open it, and he said all I needed to do was open the door a bit harder. But I tried and tried and couldn’t get it open, and I didn’t want to break it. The guy at the servo directed me to the AANT guy’s house, and he was good enough to come and open it first try for me. I’m really going to have to learn that technique.

So up the Stuart Highway I went. The landscape for the first few hundred kilometres was quite outbacky, with a few hills and crests.

This was a memorial to Sir Charles Todd, the bloke who designed and oversaw the construction of the Overland Telegraph. For those of you playing at home, that was the telegraph line that linked the rest of Australia to the UK for the first time. Amongst other thing, this meant we could get the cricket score in the UK overnight, rather than in a few weeks. The memorial marks roughly where the line joined. It was built from the south and the north and met in the middle. Note the telegraph pole in the background. I’m not sure if this is legit or not, but it’s interesting!

I actually wish I had gone to the repeater station at Tennant Creek, but I was fretting about my car when I passed it and didn’t want to stop when it seemed to be going well. I also reckon I will be back down there for work at some point, so watch this space. Katherine also has a repeater station, which I will visit in due course.

The Stuart Highway has a lot of tourist signs advertising World War II historic sites. Again, I wanted to stop and have a look but the roads were dirt and wet, and given the mechanical dramas I figured it would be better to visit another day. But I’m pretty keen to have a look. After all, in terms of Australia in WWII, this was where the action was.

As I drove along under clear blue skies I eventually saw some clouds on the horizon. As I edged closer it became apparent it wasn’t just a few clouds. This was a monsoonal low! Excuse the dead bugs on my windscreen.

I hit some pretty serious rain, which was actually quite nice because it cooled things down a bit.

The landscape also changed and the country became greener. I suppose the further north you get the more rain falls. There were more trees as well. This photo is pretty blurry, but you get the idea.

So I was pretty well stuffed by the time I got here. The ABC is putting me up in a caravan park cabin for a few nights, and I have a couple of numbers to ring about a place to live.

I start work tomorrow. It’s a rural reporter position, which means I will be filing for the Australia’s longest running radio show, the Country Hour – not Hamish and Andy believe it or not. I’ll also be presenting a 15 minute rural news segment at 6.15am (that’s early!) three days out of every six. There’s also opportunities to file for national programs like Bush Telegraph on Radio National and the World Today.

Katherine seems like an interesting sort of town. It’s about 9000 people and has similar sort of services to Parkes. In fact the Woolies seems a lot nicer than Mount Isa’s, which is almost triple the size of Katherine!

The heat and humidity is pretty spectacular, but I’m told it’s worse in Darwin. But I’m feeling pretty optimistic about the whole thing and looking forward to my first day at work tomorrow.

I was thinking about my first few days in Mount Isa, and it’s definitely a better feeling to be here! Though I suppose a lot more had changed when I moved to Mount Isa.

I’m going to try to post blogs a bit more regularly. I well and truly dropped the ball in recent months, but with a new town, new job and plenty of travel for work I’m sure there will be plenty to write about!

Watch this space.